Nakhon Ratchasima: the Thao Suranari Monument, Chumphon Gate and Wat Sala Loi

What happened here

February 1827Stop 2 of 3

The royal chronicle says the Vientiane army reached Nakhon Ratchasima while the governor and the deputy governor, Phraya Palat, were away on official business at Khukhan, so it took the town easily and then drove the townspeople, men, women and children, up towards Vientiane. When Phraya Palat heard the news he came back and pretended to join the invaders, so that he could travel with the families.

See the whole route on the map →

In the footsteps of Ya Mo in town

From the monument, walk through Chumphon Gate into the old town and you come to Wat Phra Narai Maharat, or Wat Klang Nakhon, where a reliquary shrine held her ashes from 1899 before they were moved to the base of the monument. Wat Sala Loi, to the north-east outside the moat, is the temple Thao Suranari and her husband built, and the first resting place of her ashes after her death in 1852. Its present ordination hall is built in the shape of a Chinese junk.

The place today

The Thao Suranari Monument stands in front of Chumphon Gate, the town's west gate. Cast in blackened copper and 1.85 metres tall, it shows her standing with her right hand on a sword, facing towards Bangkok. It was designed by Professor Silpa Bhirasri with Phra Thewaphinimmit and unveiled in 1934, and her ashes are kept in its base. The people of Korat come to pay their respects all day long, and the Thao Suranari victory festival is held from 23 March to 3 April every year.